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Bertinoro, 14-21 settembre 2003 Abstracts
Jan Baetens (Institute of Cultural Studies, Leuven)
Contemporary culture has often been defined by
the notion of the “visual turn” (Mitchell), i.e. as the shift from a
literary toward a visual paradigm in cultural relations and hierarchies.
For the definition of the genre (which has never
been studied as such), I will start from different existing definitions,
for instance : Novelization as
anti-remediation The problem with the first approach, novelization
as anti-adaptation, is its exclusive focus on binary relationships between
works and media. Contemporary adaptation studies (strongly influenced
by cultural studies) tend to prefer an approach that tackles the broader
social and cultural network. In such networks, hybridization seems to
be the rule today, but in fact this hybridization is nothing new. Rather
than being an aspect of postmodern civilization, the spread of hybrid
works and structures, has to be linked with the emergence of « mass
culture » (in the neutral sense of the word) after the industrialisation
of Western societies. When we « look » at the novels themselves,
one notices a strong opposition between what is done at the level of
the « peritext » and what is done at the level of the « text ».
The first multiplies all types of references to a visual subtext, the
latter seems to avoid them carefully : on the hand because the
style of a novelization is generally not descriptive at all ; on
the other hand because a novelization does not mention the fact that
it is actually describing of narrating a movie or a script (the genre
is not part of the « ekphrastic tradition »). Jean BESSIERE: "CONTAMINATION AND THE SEMIOSPHERE" Université de la Sorbonne Nouvelle By quoting the etymology of the words contamination and contagion,
one points to the contact which is the condition of contamination or
contagion, but one ignores that the contact should bear no consequences
if the one who gets in contact is not receptive. Contamination cannot
be disassociated from the possibility of reception, which characterizes
the contaminated : the alien agent is welcomed. Moreover, the contaminated
becomes the reservoir of this alien agent, and makes the disease collective.
The alien agent is so welcomed that it becomes an identity of the individual
and of the community. The alien is no longer an alien ; it is an insider
which becomes determinant of the individual and collective behaviors
and ethos. Contamination and contagion are the possibility of the manifest
and conscious individual and community. When the epidemic is over, the
memory of these specific behaviors and of this consciousness remains.
In his "Discourse about the invention of a universal pathology"
(La Notte : 1996), Giorgio Manganelli has stressed these paradoxes of
any contamination, and has noted that the collective diseases, which
contamination and contagion provoke, make everyone a participant to
the other's death before he or she dies. Death becomes collective ;
the anarchy and the fear which it triggers, do not contradict the order
of society : every man senses the joy of death and finds his own way
to this collective death. Andrea Chegai: "Ravel e le contaminazioni dissimulate". Alessandra Di Luzio: "FASHION AND CINEMA / FASHION IN CINEMA: CROSS-FERTILIZATIONS, CONTAMINATION, INFLUENCES" The relationship between fashion and cinema is wide and multifaceted, both in terms of mutual contamination and on the basis of an aesthetic/theoretic point of view. This talk will analyse the issue with a multiple perspective, considering developments in film history from the very origins to the present time, but will also focus on specific filmic texts that present an exemplification of the terms of this exchange (of ideas, objects, people). Firstly, we will try to track down a short history of dress in the cinema, by analysing the figure of the costume designer from his early appearance in the technical crew to his present function in the cinematic industry. The context of the analysis will be mainly the classic Hollywood film. Secondly, we will examine the transfiguration of the fashion materials carried out through cinema, considering fashion both as a self-conscious cultural phenomenon and as a glamorous professional environment. In other words, we will consider some filmic situations - especially within two main classic genres, Comedy and Musical - which occupy a specific context inspired by the world of fashion (ateliers, fashion designers, mannequins, catwalks, dressing rooms, magazines, etc.). In conclusion, we will consider differences and analogies between two similarly-named figures operating in the fashion business, the fashion designer and the costume designer. We will analyse in particular some key people in the world of costume for film (Edith Head, William Travilla, Orry Kelly, Travis Banton, Helen Rose, Adrian) and - mainly in the last two or three decades - some fashion designers who have successfully worked, although only occasionally, for the movie industry (Giorgio Armani).
Singin' in the Rain (1952) by Stanley Donen The Magnificent Ambersons (1942) by Orson Welles How to Marry a Millionaire (1953) by Jean Negulesco Funny Face (1956) by Stanley Donen Lady in the Dark (1946) by Mitchell Leisen Roberta (1935) by William A. Seiter Designing Woman (1956) by Vincent Minnelli Vertigo (1958) by Alfred Hitchcock American Gigolo (1980) by Paul Schrader
Paolo Fabbri: "Imprese testuali : motti e immagini" in francese: "Blasons textuels: les mots et les images". Alcuni autori, filosofi, scienziati,letterati (Croce, Benjamin, Bohr, Queneau e Calvino) si sono costruiti delle Imprese, nel senso araldico del termine, usando delle immagini e/o della scrittura. Una lettura semiotica dei loro procedimenti impiegati e del loro significato. A partire dall'"iconologia fantastica" di Calvino,un esperimento mentale di argomentazione figurativa. Claudio Franceschi: "Contaminazioni e Cannibalismi
nell'Evoluzione e nella concettualizzazione dei fenomeni biologici". Si cercherà di evidenziare due paralleli fenomeni in cui contaminazioni e cannibalismi hanno un ruolo preminente . Il primo riguarda quello che viene assunto come il paradigma fondamentale di molte scienze e cioè l'Evoluzione: un fenomeno che vede in un lasso di tempo di quattro -cinque miliardi di anni non solo l'emersione dei sistemi biologici, ma anche la loro diversificazione e complessizazione, come conseguenza di una di una straordinaria serie di interazioni e di scambi informativi, unica e irrepetibile. La seconda riguarda gli sforzi teorici che nelle varie discipline ( genetica , immunologia) hanno cercato di concettualizzare i saperi biologici specifici. Si cerchera' di dimostrare che l'Evoluzione è non solo trasmissione verticale dell'informazione all'interno delle singole specie (piu' le mutazioni), ma anche trasmissione orizzontale (contaminazione e cannibalismo) di informazioni genetiche da altre specie che entrano, si inseriscono e si integrano nel genoma di specie diverse. Inoltre nell'Evoluzione sono fondamentali meccanismi che consentono all'"invasore" di persistere nell'"ospite" creando forme di parassitismo e di reciproca interazione di grande importanza biologica. Per quanto riguarda il secondo aspetto si cercherà di dimostrare che i cambi di passo e le innovazioni piu' importanti di una disciplina avvengono quando, dopo un periodo piu' o meno lungo di sviluppo "interno", idee nuove da altre discipline (non solo biologiche e/o scientifiche, ma anche filosofiche, economiche etc) invadono e si diffondono nella disciplina che fa allora un salto di qualita' innovandosi e trasformandosi. Queste contaminazioni e cannibalismi, che si trasmettono spesso attraverso metafore, sono fenomeni complessi e intriganti, e possono essere fonte di problemi metodologici e concettuali. L'interdisciplinarietà forse non esiste ed esistono piuttosto contaminazioni di paradigmi forti nati all'interno di specifiche discipline. Giovanna Franci (University of Bologna):"Fashion as Art/Fashion in the Arts: Among 'Old Friends' " If the dialogue between art and fashion in modernity can be traced back to the 1800s, the fusion or exchange between these two "old friends" reached its peak with twentieth century avant-garde. Today, however, there is something more. Over at least the last two decades there has been increasingly evident contamination between art, fashion, and communication: from fashion show/performances to music, from cinema to advertising, from specialized magazines to design, from photography to soap operas, as well as interior design and urban renewal in general. Fashion has entered museums, and far from being considered as minor or secondary, it has carved out its own autonomous space: from 'art-à-porter' to fashion as art. The barriers seem to have crumbled, leaving space for new and combinable aesthetics. And Fashion Studies have arisen to analyze the phenomenon. The first, most evident theme is revival of fashion trends from the past (Elizabethan lace and ruffs or crinoline in John Galliano; coquettes and lady pirates in Vivienne Westwood; Victorian corsets, laces, and garters in Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and La Perla); or creative use of artistic and literary citations from one field or medium to another (Giacomo Balla in Laura Biagiotti; Lucio Fontana in La Perla; Andy Warhol in Versace, neo-baroque peplum in Balenciaga and Valentino); and so on. What is more interesting, however, is the exchange that occurs between art and fashion, beginning from twentieth century modernism, through postmodernism, up to the present. It is as if fashion, the most fragile and ephemeral of the arts, had already decided to establish a permanent tradition, while at the same time art seems to have changed its statute and language into the new habits, so to say, of fashion. Djelal Kadir: "El culto a la higiene: Neoliberalismo y sanidad pedagógica". El paradigma político y socioeconómico que rige actualmente es el Neoliberalismo. Desde 1989, con el derrumbe del sistema soviético, el Neoliberalismo no sólo goza de preeminencia ideológica, también domina incontestado y de manera triunfal. Esta conferencia propone, dentro del marco del tema de "contaminación", explorar este dominio, examinar la parte que desempeña el Neoliberalismo como culto desenfrenado en la higienización del discurso político, en la descontaminación de la docencia universitaria del conocimiento y en la privatización de la esfera pública para fines particulares. Se enfoca, sobretodo, en la relación entre el fenómeno del mercado libre y las libertades civiles, así como la relación que entabla el Neoliberal entre la formación universitaria, la ética social y la responsabilidad cívica. "The Cult of Hygiene: Neoliberalism and the Sanitation/Sanity of Pedagogy" Neoliberalism is now the reigning paradigm. Since 1989 and the fall of the Soviet system, Neoliberalism enjoys not only ideological preeminence, it also dominates unchallenged and with unchecked triumphalism. Within the framework of this year's Synapsis topic of "Contamination," this lecture aims to explore this dominance, to examine the role of Neoliberalism as rampant cult of hygienic catharsis of political discourse, the decontamination of university pedagogy and regimes of knowledge, as well as the privatization of the public sphere for particular ends. This lecture focuses, above all, on the relationship forged by Neoliberalism between the free market and civil liberty, as well as the relationship it establishes between university education, social ethics, and civic responsibility.
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