ASHKENAZI TRAVELLERS IN ITALY
Jews from Merano at the train station welcoming a European yiddish theatre group (end of the Twenties).

Theodor W. Adorno (1903-1969). German philosopher and music critic. He visited the main Italian towns. He dedicated a short diary (perhaps the only text in which he expressly writes about happiness) to Lucca (in Parva aesthetica, Feltrinelli), a town already celebrated by Heine. A few days before he died, Adorno went back to Venice; Botho Straub made a portrait of the philosopher at the Caffè Florian, in San Marco Square, in his last public appearance.

Ludmilla Assing (1821-1880). Writer and correspondent, niece of Karl-August Varnhagen von Ense. In 1861, after her father’s death (doctor David Assur who, after his conversion to Christianity adopted the name Assing and his uncle’s name and published his papers and diaries), she settled in Florence, where she had a close collaboration with the Italian republicans. She translated two German works by Piero Cironi and in 1865 she published his biography "Vita di Piero Cironi". She met De Gubernatis and collaborated to his "Rivista Europea". In her house in Florence, from 1868 to 1879 she created a salon and organized the meetings of her literary circle.
Walter Benjamin (1892-1940). German philosopher and literary critic. He often visited Italy and lived in Capri, Napoli, Siena, Pisa, Lucca, Livorno, Perugia, Rapallo, Portofino, Marina di Massa, Volterra "a kind of Engadina without snow" and for a long time in San Remo. He has written a short essay dedicated to San Gimignano (in "Immagini di città", Einaudi), and an article signed with Asja Lacis "Neapel" (in "Schriften" vol. II) in which for the first time he mentions the "porosity" of the vesuvian city, a term that will be used by Bloch in his "Italian essays". Benjamin will readapt the text of "Napoli" for a children’s radio broadcast (in "Burattini, streghe, briganti", Il melangolo); Benjamin also wrote "La scomparsa di Pompei ed Ercolano" for children radio (in "Burattini" cit.).
Ernst Bernhard (1896-1965). German Jungian psychologist. Paediatrician of Chassidic training, he leaves Berlin and, guided by a premonitory dream, goes to Rome in 1935 where he introduces the Jungian thought. He settles in via Gregoriana n.12, in the building where Gregorovius had lived, and in the summer he goes to the Lake Bracciano. During the years of the nazi occupation he survives thanks to Tucci, an orientalist expert in shamanism. In the sixties he becomes a cultural star in the Rome of "la dolce vita": Federico Fellini is one of his patients. Robert Bazien was one of his friends, the founder of Adelphi, a publisher that will be much influenced by this "chassidic" philosopher. One of the first books published by Adelphi will be in fact "Mitobiografia" by Bernhard.
Ernst Bloch (1885-1977). German philosopher. During his long life he often went to Italy, and especially in the twenties and thirties, when he studied some Italian areas on which he wrote essays such as "Notte italiana a Venezia", "Italia, la porosità" in "Verfremdungen II" ("Geographica", Marietti). He used to suggest his friends to reach Italy from the south, either from Sicily or from Africa, in order not to fall into the classicist myths of the German traveller, which identified Italy with the Renaissance.
Rudolf Borchardt (1887-1945). German writer. He spent most of his life in Tuscany, around Lucca, he wrote an original middle high German version of the "Divina Commedia"; he was caught by the nazi and died near the Italian frontier of Brennero. He wrote some essays on "Venezia", the Italian "villa", "Pisa e il suo paesaggio", "Volterra" and "Da un giardino del Sud" (in "Città italiane", Adelphi); he dedicated a book to "Pisa, solitudine di un impero" (Nistri-Lischi), a political-cultural celebration of an non-renaissance Italy.
Oskar Goldberg (1885-1952). German orientalist and religion historian. After some paranormal experiences, he published the controversial "Wirklichkeit der Hebraer" "La realtà degli ebrei", against which Scholem intervened. In 1934 he lived in San Remo and, in Benjamin’s ironic words, thanks to one of his scholars, he used to supply the local newsagent with copies of "La realtà degli ebrei" while he was at the casino to experiment his number mysticism.
Sigmund Freud (1856-1939). Austrian physician. He postponed for a long time his trip to the south, alleging some excuses such as fear of contagious diseases, or the climate. His trip to his beloved/hated Rome became a testing bench and Freud felt relieved when he could confront himself with Michelangelo’s Mosé. In 1895 he goes to Venice and writes about the "inebriation that this city provokes". Later he will visit Capri, Rapallo, Genova. In 1901 he finally goes to Rome. It will be the first of his seven visits to the holy city. At the beginning of his first day in Rome he goes to San Pietro. The third day he goes to see Michelangelo’s Mosé. In 1902 he goes to Naples and Sorrento. In 1907 he visits the old roman Jewish catacombs. In 1912 he proposes his wife to settle in Rome.
Henriette Herz (1764-1847). Daughter of the Sephardic doctor De Lemos, after her marriage with Markus Herz she created one of the most popular cultural salons of the time. Extremely cultured woman, she spoke numerous languages and taught Hebrew to the young brothers Alexander and Wilhelm von Humboldt. From 1817 to 1819 she went to Italy, and she met her friend Dorothea Schlegel in Rome, where she began writing an autobiography that will be concluded and published in 1850 by her friend Joseph Furst on the basis of his accounts ("Henriette Herz. Ihr Leben und ihre Erinnerungen").
Franz Kafka (1883-1924). Bohemian writer in German language. In 1909 (9th September) he is in Brescia to see an aviation gathering, on which he writes "Gli aeroplani a Brescia" (in "Confessioni e diari", Mondadori) From 1910 to 1912 he stays in a clinic in Riva del Garda and in 1920 in a sanatorium in Merano. He writes about his Milanese sojourn in "" [….] In his book "Il processo" "The trial" there are some echoes of his Italian tour in the penultimate chapter, "Il cristiano e, fuso con esso, l’italiano diventano palesi trasposizioni dell’ebraico. […] La trasposizione delle figure in chiave italiana comincia col pittore Tintorelli…." (Mittner).
Karl Kraus (1874-1936). Austrian writer. At the eve of World War I he goes three times to Italy during a tormented love story with the noble Sidonie Nadherny. He has a distressing meeting with Sidonie in Rome. He also meets some politicians to prevent Italy’s going to war.
Fanny Lewald (1811-1889). Writer and emancipationist. In 1845, after the publication of her first three novels, she definitely left her home and settled in Berlin; then she moved to Italy and lived in Rome for six months. In Rome she met her future husband, the philologist Adolf Stahr, and she fulfilled herself as an intellectual. During her life she visited Italy six times; her travels in Italy are narrated in literary reports, travel commentary ("Italienisches Bilderbuch" 1847), and travel letters, which were published during her Italian sojourns by German newspapers and eventually collected in a volume.
Karl Lövith (1897-1973). German philosopher. In 1935 he seeks refuge in Rome, recommended to Gentile by Heidegger – who writes about him in a letter to Hannah Arendt to prove he is not an anti-Semite. While in Rome, Lowith lives in via Gregoriana, via Bocca di Leone, via delle Sette Sale, and there he meets many Germans in exile. In his posthumous autobiography and in his letters – especially those addressed to Leo Strauss – he will depict the image of a dull Rome of the thirties, where "the spiritual and political life does not correspond to the tradition of ancient Rome"..
György Lukács (1885-1971). Hungarian philosopher. In 1908 he accompanies Irma Seidler to Florence. He also visits Settignano and Ravenna. In 1911 Lukacs goes back to Florence with Béla Balazs, and visits Assisi. In the winter 1911-12 he settles in Florence and writes about his aesthetic theories and philosophy of art. In 1912 he visits Genova, in 1913 he stays in Bellaria (Rimini), where he meets his future wife. They will go to Venice.
Gustav Mahler (1860-1911). Austrian composer. In 1899 he makes a tour of Italy with his sister Justine. Between 1908 and 1910, he spends his holidays in a big house in Toblach (not yet Dobbiaco), where he writes "Das Lied von der Erde", the Ninth Symphony and the unfinished Tenth symphony.
Fanny Mendelssohn (1805-1847). Pianist and composer. Elder sister of Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, in 1839 she went to Italy with her husband – the painter Wilhelm Hensel – and his one-year-old son. In Italy she visited the most important artistic places and stayed in Rome for seven months. Her impressions of Italy are narrated in a travel journal and in some letters she wrote to her family, all of them published in 1981 as "Italienisches Tagebuch" (Italian journal); the music she composed expresses her feelings for the places she visited, in particular the piano cycle "Das Jahr" (The year).
Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy (1809-1847). German composer. He was the grandson of the philosopher Moses, but grew up following the Luteran faith; he journeyed through Scotland – country that inspired him the "Scottish Symphony" - and, immediately after, he went to Italy. Following the memories of this Mediterranean initiation he composed the "Italian Symphony". During the years of Nazism his music was prohibited in public concerts.
Dorothea Schlegel (1764-1839). Writer and translator. Daughter of Moses Mendelssohn. She married the banker Sinom Veit, with whom she had two children, and in Berlin she frequented the cultural salon of Henriette Herz, where she met her second husband Friedrich Schlegel. While living with Schlegel she began her literary life, publishing works and translations with his name. From 1818 to 1820 she spent nearly two years in Rome with her two sons, the painters Johannes and Philipp Veit, who had settled there.
Otto Weininger (1880-1903). Austrian philosopher. In the last year of his short life, a few months before killing himself, he makes a tour of southern Italy: on 23rd July he visits the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums in Rome. There he writes some notes on Raphael and Michelangelo that will be published posthumous in "Taschenbuch". He then travels to Naples, Messina, Taormina, Catania and reaches Siracusa on 3rd August. He is particularly struck by Etna. On his way back he writes from Casamicciola (Ischia) "There is little hope left". At the end of his trip, he commits suicide in the room where Beethoven had died.
Aby Warburg (1866-1929). German art historian. Since his dissertation thesis on the mythological paintings of Botticelli, he dedicates most of his research to the Italian art and he stays in many renaissance towns. In Florence he meets the artist Mary Hetz and they spend there a long time studying the Medicean history. During his numerous trips to Italy, Warburg plans the foundation of an institute for the study of renaissance culture.
Karl Wolfskehl (1869-1948). Poet in the circle of George, he arrived in Italy in 1934. Once in Italy, he thought over his Jewish identity which he found again in his spirit rather than his genealogy. He thought of going to Palestine but eventually remained in Italy. He lived in Rome until the political situation forced him to another exile in New Zealand. Letters from Italy tell us about his Italian tour ("Briefwechsel aus Italien 1933-1938", Hamburg 1993).
Stefan Zweig (1881-1942). Austrian writer. He goes to Italy for the first time at 25. Two years later he goes back to Italy and stays in Bagni di Lucca for a few months, on Heine’s track. In 1930 he goes to Capo Sorrento to meet Gorki. Between 1937-38 he stays in Naples, where he writes "Magellan", and for some months he studies at the Ambrosiana Library.

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